The Cononaco River Experience - Ecuadorian Amazon

Our last night at Obipari (Anaconda Lagoon) provided special meaning to our relationship with the Waorani.  Strange fireflies with twin luminescent patches looking like fiery eyes provided whimsical lighting, as our Waorani hosts engaged in storytelling. The story they imparted provided a glimpse into their belief systems within the context of a culture devoid of written traditions.  We felt privileged to listen as the mystical story unfolded of how the Waorani came to have blowguns.  This survival tool allowed for both food security and the capacity to ward off strangers encroaching on their territories. Hunting the protein-rich monkeys, tantalizingly out of reach, was paramount to their ultimate survival.   

Dwarf Caiman sunning on a log

Dwarf Caiman on the move

The return journey up the Cononaco River towards Bameno and Otobo’s basecamp was undertaken under threatening skies.  Additionally, the morning fog caused by the massive transpiration of water from the jungle vegetation, presented an ethereal quality to our journey.  With a signal to Otobo from eagle-eyed guide Alex, Otobo cut the engine and glided into shore. He was trying to draw our attention to something on the riverbank. After scanning the bank for a few seconds, feeling decidedly incompetent, there came the “aha” moment.  The camouflaged Dwarf Caiman finally materialized, lying stationary atop a log not twenty feet away! With green tinted scales, and wicked teeth protruding around the sides of its snout, it presented as a formidable Jurassic-style predator, albeit one that came in at a diminutive 6’. 

Soon, the heavens opened upon us, quickly adding volumes to the water already sloshing around our boots. This was our canoe’s last journey after 15 years laboring on the rivers of the Amazon.  Amongst other severe wear issues, it sported a weeping four-inch wound in the bottom. This required clay patching combined with constant bailing by Otobo’s young son, Api. Having previously donned a poncho, I stayed relatively dry as the balance of our expedition party exited the canoe to seek shelter under low-hanging vegetation upon a large sandbank. It wasn’t more than 15 minutes later that my bedraggled mates returned to the canoe, having given up on the concept of staying dry.  

The clay canoe patch

Sarah spotted a Jaguar while in this same area with Otobo in February 2025, so we kept our eyes trained on the riverbanks. While no Jaguars graced our presence, numerous White Caimans caught our attention, multiple flights of Macaws were observed, and we offended many a troop of monkeys.   

After some six and a half hours on the river, we returned to the relative comfort of the basecamp. We all enjoyed a good night’s sleep with the exception of Amanda who had picked up a stomach bug which caused repeated vomiting. During such an episode she looked down to find a juvenile Fer de Lance poised to strike, not four feet away from the toilet.  The Fer de Lance, a pit-viper native to this part of South America is lethal depending on dose. The next evening it showed up again at the campsite and on this occasion, Otobo’s assistance was requested.  He deftly caught the snake using a combination of a stick and, of all things, a Tupperware container. He then released it into the river, hoping it would find a safe place away from humans.

Bameno Handicrafts

Andrea with handicraft booty

One afternoon after a hike back beyond basecamp, we all descended on Bameno for the traditional Waorani welcome with dancing, followed by an opportunity to view all the handicrafts the villagers created and wished to sell.  The Chisholms bought 20-30 handwoven Chambria Palm bags for eventual sale at a specialty store in NYC, and Andrea and I bought a blowgun, a handwoven hammock, several bags and woven fiber baskets.  Laden down with our booty, we retreated to basecamp. 

After dinner Andrea and I explored the jungle at night where we came upon one of the most slender, dainty snakes I’ve ever encountered.  This snail-eating snake, was about three feet long but only as thick as my little finger. Additionally, we saw a large two-toned toad, Tarantulas, and a variety of nocturnal spiders competing for food along with other insect predators. A veritable feast for the toad!

Snail-eating snake

On yet another misty morning, we traveled upstream towards Boanamo (Otobo’s family home along the Cononaco). While motoring upstream, we chanced upon an adult Tapir swimming across the river, and were able to observe it up close as it found its footing and ascended, soon disappearing into the surrounding jungle at the water’s edge.  Tapirs are large herbivorous mammals of the Tapiridae family with only one extant species.  They are most closely related to equines and rhinoceroses. On another occasion our canoe ride was punctuated with a pair of Peccaries belonging to the family Tayassuidae (New World pigs) attempting a river crossing.  The Waorani frequently choose to roast them on spits over open fires during community celebrations. 

Tapir

Pecarry

Upon reaching our hiking destination we exited our canoes and navigated along the partially covered trail. Alex, our young guide, took lead on this jungle jaunt hoping to locate some wild Macaws along the way.  Within a couple hundred feet of the river’s shore line, we disturbed a troop of monkeys dining on tree fruits for breakfast.  It was evident from their vocalizations and the way the alpha male provocatively glared at us, that we had rudely invaded their space.  After showing face to the human transgressors, he encouraged the balance of the troop to move expeditiously out of range of our peering eyes. 

With machete yielding Alex in the lead, we trod single file through the bush till a sudden halt and hand signal from Alex brought us to attention. He gestured up and said “el Perozoso” (Sloth in Spanish). Now, as any schoolchild knows, Sloths are not small insignificant creatures so I fully expected to see a familiar outline somewhere close at hand. But no, that was not the case for any of these jungle neophytes.  It was only after some study of the arboreal plain above us that we were able to discern a grayish blob that really could have been an irregular tree growth.   This unique Xenarthra mammal (most closely related to anteaters and armadillos), was high up in a palm tree.  With his green tinged fur, from a symbiotic-algae, he blended into the varied greens of the tree canopy just as intended.  Beyond humans, this helps the Sloth stay hidden from its predators, primarily the giant Harpy Eagles and jungle cats. Once located, we all broke out the cell phones and cameras to capture the moment, soon recognizing the futility of that endeavor. Recognizing our dilemma, Alex blithely asked if we would like him to climb up and take some pictures. After a deft weave of jungle vines, he had his rope and looped it around the palm and then ascended, inchworm-style, some sixty feet up. With one hand on the palm, he leaned out and took pictures and videos before descending. Let me just say, I was extremely envious of his physical prowess!  This young man has jungle creds. 

"el Perozoso" (Sloth)

Further along the trail we chanced upon fresh Jaguar tracks larger than a beefy hand and also came upon a solitary Bullet ant.  These one-inch ants are feared for their painful sting, with which they paralyze their prey. Showing due respect, we kept our distance and took macro pics of this apex predator of the insect-world.  Thereafter, we spotted a long sought-after poison dart frog, with its characteristically bold coloring.  True to form, his bright bold red torso screamed, “don’t touch”. 

Poison Dart Frog

Bullet Ant

Our trek’s initial goal was to get into closer proximity to the vibrant Macaws, and indeed we could hear them screeching as they passed above us. I am sure having a troop of eight flatlanders passing through the underbrush didn’t help our stealth cause, yet Alex once again came through. He was able to spot a beautiful Scarlet Macaw through the underbrush, and trained the monoscope on it so we could all partake of this over-the-top, brilliantly plumaged bird.   

Upon our return to the canoe, we came upon a troop of noisy Spider Monkeys who proceeded to throw various types of debris down upon us, luckily not of the fecal variety.  Otobo was patiently waiting with the canoes upon our sweaty return, and offered up chilled boxed fruit drinks which were very welcome. I characterized this as a “half-crotch hike” - hot and difficult enough to soak my shirt completely and halfway down my pants! 

Boyd resting post "half-crotch" hike

Andrea river swimming post hike

We then motored upriver to Boameno, which is being established as a research center, in addition to being home for Otobo’s mother, father, sister and brother-in law. We shared a packed lunch while discussing potential candidates for use of the research station, and then all walked down to the lagoon.  After a cooling lagoon swim it was good-bye to the Chisholms, Kaitlin, Nate along with Otobo, who were traveling up the Cononaco River for 2.5 days where they could catch transportation back to Quito. This required them passing along the boundary of the “no-go” territory belonging to the un-contacted tribes. 

Isaiah, Amanda, Sarah, Kaitlin & Nate 

Andrea and I overnighted at basecamp, arising before daybreak with Howler monekeys serenading us with their guttural howls. We loaded up the canoe and headed downstream to Bameno, where we awaited our scheduled 9AM bush plane to Coca.  Ultimately, our return flight was delayed, as our plane had to be diverted elsewhere to pick up a snake bite victim who required life-saving antivenom.  Interestingly enough, the number reason for maternal mortality amongst the Waorani is snake bite, not childbirth! This is due to increased viper exposure while gardening. 

Question: Which is the only species of monkey in the Amazon that can swing through the trees Tarzan style?

Answer: Spider Monkeys are the only species of monkey who can actually swing through the trees with their long arms.  The other 11 species of monkey that populate the Ecuadorian Amazon must jump from branch to branch. As an aside, the Spider Monkeys can also throw things, including feces, at those who enter their territory.